The Temple of Abu Simbel

(first Published in Small World Ezine on May 14, 2002)

 

Abu Simbel is a set of two temples near the border of Egypt and Sudan. It was constructed (rock-carved) for the pharaoh Ramesses II who reigned for 67 years during the 13th century BC (19th Dynasty). the temples were unknown until their rediscovery by J. L. Burckhardt of Great Britain in 1813 (they were deeply buried in the sand by then), and first explored in 1817 by the Egyptologist Giovanni B. Belzoni. 

If you want figures (I really hate them)... Abu Simbel is located 282 km (175 miles) south of Aswan, Egypt, on the west bank of the river Nile. The two rock-hewn temples consist of four colossal statues of Ramesses (Ramses in some books), measuring about 20 m (65 ft.) high as the facade of the larger temple; and other four 10-m high (33 ft.) of his statues of and two of his principal queen's -- Nefertari as the facade of the smaller temple. Some sources say the statues are of Ramesses's, Nefertari, and some gods and goddesses of ancient Egypt. 

The inner walls of the larger temple bear painted reliefs of the king in some religious ceremonies and fightings. The most amazing thing is, at the end of the hall (55 m. or 180 ft. from entrance), there are statues of the gods Ptah, Amon-re, Re-Karakhti, and King Ramesses II himself. on which the direct rays of the SUn shine at sunrise only twice a year -- on February 20th, and October 20th. But those are not what made the place the second most visited site of Egypt (after the pyramids). In the 60s, the Government of Egypt decided to construct Aswan dam on the Nile. As a result, the water of the Nile will be reserved for agricultural and electrical generation purposes in an artificial lake -- Lake Nasser. The problem is here... The temples of Abu Simbel are located just where the proposed Lake Nasser will be! Between 1964 and 1966, a project sponsored by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) and the Egyptian government disassembled both temples and reconstructed them on top of the cliff 200 feet above the original site. The project was finished in 1968 at a cost of $40 million. The two temples were dismantled and raised over 60 meters up the sandstone cliff where they had been built more than 3,000 years before. Here they were reassembled, in the exact same relationship to each other and the sun, and covered with an artificial mountain. Most of the joins in the stone have now been filled by antiquity experts, but inside the temples it is still possible to see where the blocks were cut. You can also go inside the man made dome and see an exhibition of photographs showing the different stages of the massive removal project. It is, until date, the largest rescue ever done to an endangered historical site.

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It is too late to see the miracle light of October, but you can plan ahead for February 20th. 

You can get to Abu Simbel by air, bus, or boat. The nearest big city is Aswan, so we recommend you visit the Aswan High Dam and the ancient sites nearby and stay the night there to take an early morning bus (about 5am) to Abu Simbel. It's worth getting up that early. With this bus, you'll arrive at Abu Simbel at around 7am. The view of the four statues in the morning sunlight will make you forget about the sleepless night. You can spend the day there and take the afternoon bus back to Aswan.

To take a boat, it'll be a three-day trip. But then you'll experience one of a romantic cruise in the Nile. Not a bad idea, if you have time.

Only one thing you have to be careful is -- somehow the terrorists of Egypt like to attack tourists to make a statement! Tourism is probably the big income of the government, so it remains almost the only target. However, 

there was no attack for a while. Let's just go, but be alert and careful. Don't go somewhere unnecessary such as casinos  or bars. Egypt is a one-in-a-life-time destination for travellers. Don't miss it.